When a fellow finds himself in or around Lachine at breakfast or lunch time, it’s always a bit of a challenge. For breakfast, I generally go the safe route, and install myself in a chain like Eggsquis or Cora, or skulk into some deli-style restaurant where the array of top-of-the-morning vittles isn’t necessarily the healthiest. Come lunch, you’ll find me just as sheepishly venturing into one or another fast-food joint or tucking into the dubious fare at a buffet-style eatery. But the mealtime narrative in Lachine is poised for change, thanks to a recent gastronomic discovery I’ve made in these parts — a discovery I’m delighted to share.

RESTAURANT STYLE

Debordes is a bistro-style restaurant, with casually dressed wait staff and a charmingly simple menu. Open only for the first two meals of the day, the place is also available for special-event reservations. The floorplan is divided in two sections, with the smaller side nicely sized and situated for business meetings or small celebrations.

DECOR

The restaurant is very bright, thanks in large part to the quirky choice to employ a big glass garage door as a front entrance. The space is furnished with comfortable wooden pieces that don’t steal the scene from the vivid colours that adorn the interior walls. Several TVs are suspended in each section of the restaurant so guests can watch their favourite sporting telecast or broadcast their own images, movies or pictures during an event.

ATMOSPHERE

Debordes is nothing if not casual. Its screen-adorned interior, and the promise of hockey and football games spilling from them, makes it a likely gathering spot for groups to congregate over a meal.

CUSTOMERS

At breakfast, families and bands of friends make up the bulk of the dining population at Debordes. Lunchtime tends to attract a mix of locals and area workers looking for a quick bite.

WINE AND COCKTAILS

Along with a nice selection of cocktails, several wines are available by the glass here. You can also buy a litre of house wine, if that’s your druthers. The owner’s commitment to offering great choices at sweet prices is evident throughout the drink menu.

MEALS

Breakfast

My first visit to Debordes was for breakfast on a weekend. I ordered the eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and goat cheese. The meal, which was served with smartly seasoned breakfast fries, was hot and nicely presented. The fruits that decorated the plate were fresh, unlike the pale counterparts that some restaurants dish out in the clear anticipation of their never getting eaten.

My dining companion ordered the sweet pancake with fruits, a dish he declared a success. The sweet crepe was light and stuffed with an abundance of fresh filling. Debordes’ coffee is ground in house, ensuring both freshness and flavour. Attention to details such as this is what makes the difference between a restaurant that’s committed to giving its patrons the very best and the lazy rest.

Lunch

For lunch a few days later, I had a curious urge for pizza — but what a bizzare place to order one. The owner Antonio nonetheless convinced me to try it on the strength of his recently purchased pizza oven and his desire for my comments thereon. I thought that this little bit of experimentation in a neighbourhood bistro would surely not lead to the discovery of the century. But I was wrong! Debordes’ pizza was much better than those that file out of many so-called pizzerias in the area. Featuring a nice crispy crust and a slew of fresh garnishes, this generous pie is good enough for two. As is the tradition in Montreal, the pizza was accompanied by delicious, fresh (never frozen!) house fries. Delicious.

SERVICE

All the employees at Debordes keep their eye on the entrance, so committed are they to ensuring a warm greeting for every guest. I have eaten two meals in the place, and have been taken care of by two different servers. In both instances, the service was courteous and professional. Even the cook made an appearance during lunch to deliver fries to our table so that they wouldn’t get cold.