When I think of Japanese food, my mind immediately travels to those places where big central hot tables are presided over by knife-wielding chefs who toss their ingredients in the air before they make contact with your plate. But this new Montreal restaurant demonstrates that there’s yet more innovation to be had beyond an already innovative concept.

The Ryu, a word that means "dragon" in Japanese, stands out from other restaurants of its kind for its splendid marriage of the concept of tapas with Japanese food.

Located in the Outremont neighbourhood, the new restaurant has set up shop on Laurier near the corner of Park Avenue. Unfortunately, roadworks have hampered the proceedings, pretty much since the place opened. C’est la vie in Montreal!

The restaurant has a bar where guests can enjoy a drink while waiting for their tables or their friends (who are no doubt delayed by the city’s traffic). The Ryu operates inside a multifaceted concept that combines original creations, tapas, sushi, Asian cuisine, a large variety of cocktails and lounge music in a very modern decor. The result is exhilarating.

TYPE
It was important to owner David Dayan that the restaurant offer an excellent selection of fresh Quebec-grown produce, and that it have a lounge for guests to drift to in the evenings. Having succeeded in these pursuits and others, Dayan can be assured that there is no other restaurant like his in Montreal, and maybe not even in all of Quebec. While Ryu is admittedly not the only restaurant hawking sushi in the area (indeed, Juni, one of the neighbourhood’s most popular eateries, is just a few doors away), none other offers such an appealing combination of features under one roof.

AMBIANCE
When we visited on a Monday night, the restaurant was fairly quiet, its modern lounge undulating with smooth music, intimate conversation and soft lighting. The music would increase in volume as the evening wore on. 

DÉCOR
Under the very capable leadership of renowned Montreal design firm Humà, the décor at Ryu fairly sings. Done up in a chic and trendy design, the place features a stylized dragon, embedded in the wall just above the line of white chairs and cozy banquettes. The lighting, dominated by a purple hue, is modern and striking. And the long white bar surprised us when we arrived by its impressive length and aesthetics. All told, Ryu can accommodate about 40 guests at a time.

CLIENTELE
The restaurant seems to attract female clients above all. Clearly, the design of the place appeals to women. Some couples choose Ryu, but this is not the norm here. The young patrons also appreciate the loud music as the evening progresses.

WINE LIST
Ryu’s menu includes a variety of tasty cocktails in addition to a wine list that’s filled with a range of well-made Rieslings and private imports.

MEAL
Since the Ryu is unique for its dual offering of tapas and Japanese cuisine, we opted for this choice. For starters, we had the Ryu tartare, an entrée of tuna and salmon presented as a high-end dessert. The presentation was outstanding, the fish was fresh and well seasoned. Up next: a combination of tomato and tofu swimming in an intoxicatingly ginger-scented oil. The snapper with yuzu butter was the best raw fish I've ever eaten, nothing less. The very delicately flavoured delicacy quite literally melted in my mouth. And the teka, the famous tuna that is slightly seared before being served on a puree of avocado, was also exceptionally tender and delicious. Beef tataki and lamb chops with rosemary and basil pesto followed. They were, not surprisingly, very good, but nothing special. For dessert, the waiter brought fried ice cream coated in Corn Flakes. It was a special combination and, for those diners who appreciate a hit of sugar after a meal, the perfect conclusion to an excellent dinner.

SERVICE
On this relatively calm evening, the service was provided by the manager and maître d’, Jeremie. His suggestions on the food and wines were perfect. The service was professional and discreet throughout the evening.

HOW MUCH
It will cost you $ 150, before taxes, for the chef’s selection of tapas.